DAILY POSTCARD | TUESDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2025 |
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Dear International Living reader, Cinque Terre may be one of Italy's most photographed destinations—but beyond the postcard colors and cliff-hugging villages lies a more intimate, less-seen side of these "Five Lands." Over two slow, savor-filled days, Norm Bour made his way through sleepy harbors, narrow stone alleyways, panoramic hilltops, and even a newly reopened cliffside path lost for over a decade. What he discovered was a Cinque Terre that most tourists never pause long enough to notice—and it's nothing short of magical. Read on… | P.S. There's less than 48 hours left to claim your FREE copy of Europe's Hidden Coast: Where American Retirees Can Discover Italian-Style Charm for $1,100 a Month with our limited-time offer. Get it here now. |
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The Side of Cinque Terre Most Tourists Don't See |
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There are many places in the world that are magical, and almost too beautiful to describe. Italy has its share, but it's rare to find not just one, or two, but to find five located within 17 miles of each other. It's called Cinque Terre, "Five Lands" in English. All of these little villages are similar to one another—and yet each is also unique. |
Cinque Terre is quintessential Italy… |
Located midway between Pisa and Genoa, Cinque Terre is easy to get to. Thanks to the efficient Cinque Terre Express, one of the many Trenitalia train routes, you can access it from several Italian cities. The most likely launch spot is a small town called La Spezia, just a 10-minute train ride from the first Cinque Terre village. We stayed in La Spezia and spent two days exploring Cinque Terre. The Best Beach in Cinque Terre Riomaggiore is the first village, and since many like it so well, the 10-minute train ride, initially jammed to the rafters, emptied quickly at this stop. We decided to go to the last (and largest) village, Monterosso, so we could judge the distances between each of the stops, and, glad we did! Along that 20-minute ride we could see glimpses of the Ligurian Sea, which is a section of the Mediterranean, and went through several tunnels. The town is built for tourism, so walkways are everywhere, and the one which parallels the beach is an easy stroll. We found out afterwards that the sandy beach here was the only one along the route; what few beaches there are in the other villages, are mostly rock and pebble. There were several people taking advantage of that sand, and several more enjoying the still-warm October water. |
Monterosso has the only sandy beach in Cinque Terre. © Norm Bour |
There are different ways to explore Monterosso depending upon whether you want to see the village itself, with its numerous shops and cafes, or continue your walk along the oceanfront paths to the next town. We walked through the sleepy village, stopped at a grocery store, and enjoyed a focaccia sandwich and a lemon beer, one of our favorites. The Most Beautiful Village… and Our Least Favorite The second village we visited was Vernazzo. Many claim that it's the most beautiful of the five villages, and though that may be subjective, I would not argue against it! If there was one word to describe Vernazzo, it would be charming. From the moment you exit the train and walk down the very short hill, the entire town opens before you, and you can almost imagine you are in a travelogue or a movie set. The surprisingly narrow streets had more cafes and restaurants than we had seen in Monterosso, and many were geared towards "fast-er food" and budget-conscious travelers. The main street is not very long and leads you directly to the small harbor, with wharfs and walls and places to sit or lounge. English was widely spoken, as though they frequently cater to Americans and other English speakers. By now the day was moving on and we knew we'd never hit all five villages in day one. I suggest you pace yourself, too! Back on the train—they run about every 20 minutes—and onward we went to the next of the Five Lands… We finished up the day at the village of Manarolla. Truth is, Manarolla didn't grab us like the prior villages we visited. The town has an upper and a lower section, and the lower section, like Vernazzo, leads into the harbor. It is, however, large enough that it offers a good selection of lodging. (Some consider it the most romantic village.) The Best Views in the 5 Lands… and the Most Livable Village |
Bring your best walking or hiking shoes! © Norm Bour |
The village that was our first stop on Day 2, Corniglia, we consider a "must-visit"! Upon arrival, we followed the sign saying "Centro." Along the way we took some detours through the very narrow walkways, and the place felt so inviting, so comfortable. You can walk through the empty streets, wending their way upward to panoramic viewing spots. What Corniglia lacks in ocean-close access, it makes up for with high-elevation views. We could have spent hours there. Last, but certainly not least, we finished up at the first village on the route, Riomaggiore. Even though it's tucked away on the inland side of the train tracks, Riomaggiore felt like a "true" village, very livable rather than just a tourist magnet. But there is one major attraction here that I consider a "must-do" item. |
Walk along the cliff face… © Norm Bour |
There are those who hike, and those who don't, either because they are not able to, or it's just not their thing. For that, Riomaggiore has a solution. It's called Via dell'Amore, or Street of Love, and it's a paved path, partially covered, that takes you about 3,000 feet along the cliff face. It starts right at the train station and costs about $13, with a discount for seniors. And it's worth every bit of it. The path is easy to walk on, pretty straight all the way; plus, it offers views along the waterfront that you could not see anywhere else in the entire five villages. The walkway was wiped out in a landslide, and closed for 12 years. It just reopened in 2024. It's pleasant, beautiful, and a host of other superlatives, and should not be missed. |
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