My curiosity was piqued; I had to check it out for myself. What I discovered astounded me: a long golden beach (which I had entirely to myself), mouth-watering food at crazy-low prices, an abundance of lovely parks and plazas, and a small, but welcoming expat community. I was excited to find a new place that in-the-know expats love, but that hasn't even made it into the guidebooks yet.
"I have traveled all over the world," says New York retiree Bob Ebers, "and this is one of the most beautiful cities that I have ever visited; the huge waterfront, surrounded by mountains, the greenery. These are the things that really drew me here."
It nestles below forested hills and mountains to the south, west, and north.
The city itself sits along a clean, peach-colored beach. The sand stops at rocky headlands outside of town in both directions; small, mostly empty beaches lie beyond the southern headlands.
Watching the sunrise is spectacular here. The entire coast, stretching nearly from the northern marina to the southern end of town, is one long public park and promenade.
Parks and plazas line most of the opposite side of the coast road, too, with more scattered through every neighborhood in the city. Some have exercise equipment, others have playgrounds; some are for cycling or hiking, and others for relaxation.
Most are decorated with colored lights come nightfall. All of them are maintained and clean. The parks and plazas come alive in the evenings, when families come out to enjoy the cool air and vendors line the sidewalks selling ice cream, cotton candy, and treats. It seems as if you are never more than a five- or 10-minute walk from a well-kept public area.
This area feels prosperous. It wasn't even established as a city until 1986, though its history goes back to the 11th century when it was a major center of culture.
There are still towers—ornate brick shrines built in the medieval period—in the area, including a pair of matching towers right in town. The beach has a few newer hotels and resorts, but it's pretty low-key in terms of tourist development.
There is a pleasing mix of Art Deco-styled buildings, temples, churches, small city parks, and pedestrianized areas. It doesn't have many big city attractions, but what you will find is a busy little downtown, several traditional markets, modern supermarkets, a delectable food scene, and an uncrowded beach that stretches for miles.
The lifestyle tends to be slow, social, and laidback. That said, the city comes to life once the sun goes down. The bill for two came to just $2.60.That's when the restaurants fill up—and the prices are some of the lowest that I've seen in the "New Caribbean."
I had a big dinner at a renowned local restaurant, and the bill for two came to just $2.60, including iced tea. If you prefer street food, sitting on a little plastic chair on the sidewalk, it's even cheaper.
Expect to pay around $1 for stuffed pancakes and iced tea to feed two people. Local food served in restaurants is varied and prices are uniformly cheap—even seafood is affordable.
My husband, David, and I went to a grill-it-yourself restaurant. It was a fun dinner, the food was great, and the two of us ate well for $13 (excluding a few 60-cent beers).
Rent, Transport, and Weather
Housing is inexpensive, even by the country's standards. Monthly rents for furnished studio apartments start at less than $200, while spacious two-bedroom, unfurnished single-family homes are available for less than $300. You won't find any property agents; the rental market operates almost entirely by word-of-mouth. If you want to find housing, it's easier to start by renting a local room or an apartment through Airbnb or another booking website.
Long-term housing is best found once you're in the area, as it requires networking at local businesses and expat hangouts. The cost of living is extremely affordable given the high quality of life in the city. Two people can live comfortably on less than $1,000 per month. Local expat Michael Harding's average monthly budget is only $300.
"That includes rent, utilities, gas for my motorbike, and eating out frequently. But I know the cheap spots," he says.
Commentaires
Enregistrer un commentaire
Thank you to leave a comment on my site